Preparing Plumeria for Winter Dormancy

Plumeria (Frangipani) are tropical and subtropical trees that naturally slow or stop active growth during cool or dry periods. Understanding how dormancy works and preparing your plants correctly ensures they remain healthy and ready to burst back into growth when spring returns.

1. Understanding Plumeria Dormancy

What Dormancy Means

Dormancy is a temporary rest period when plumeria conserves energy by stopping leaf, branch, and root growth. The plant sheds its leaves and focuses on protecting stored nutrients within its trunk and roots. This natural pause allows the plant to survive unfavorable growing conditions—especially cold or drought.

Visual Signs of Dormancy

• Leaves are yellowing and falling off
• No new growth or buds forming
• Branch tips harden and darken slightly
• Sap flow slows, and stems feel firmer

Dormancy is not a sign of distress; it’s a protective response.

2. What Causes Plumeria to Go Dormant

Temperature

The most common trigger is cool temperatures, generally below 50°F (10°C). Prolonged exposure below 45°F often halts growth completely. Plumeria evolved to slow metabolism in response to seasonal cooling or shorter daylight periods.

Daylight Hours

Decreasing daylight signals the plant to rest. Even if temperatures stay warm, shortened days in fall can still initiate leaf drop and dormancy in some varieties.

Water and Environmental Stress

• Reduced watering during shorter days contributes to dormancy.
• In tropical regions, plumeria may enter dry-season dormancy rather than cold dormancy.
• Overwatering in cool weather often leads to root or stem rot because the plant’s uptake slows dramatically.

Hormonal Triggers

Internally, reduced light and cooler air suppress growth hormones (like gibberellins and cytokinins), while abscisic acid levels rise, encouraging leaf drop and dormancy.

3. Do All Plumeria Go Completely Dormant?

No—not all plumeria go fully dormant, and how they behave depends on:

• Climate zone
• Variety or species
• Growing conditions (indoor vs. outdoor)

Tropical Zones (USDA 10–11)

• Plumeria may never go fully dormant.
• They often retain a few leaves and continue slow root growth.
• Flowering may slow but not always stop.
• Seedlings under one year old often remain partially active, developing roots even while top growth pauses.

Subtropical and Temperate Zones (USDA 8–9 and below)

• Plumeria go completely dormant once temperatures dip below 50°F.
• Leaves drop completely, stems firm up, and all visible growth stops.
• In these regions, plants require indoor storage or greenhouse protection.

Indoor-Grown or Greenhouse Plumeria

• May stay semi-dormant with partial leaf retention under grow lights or heated conditions.
• Maintain minimal watering to prevent dehydration without triggering new growth.

4. Preparing Plumeria for Dormancy

Proper preparation prevents stress and rot while setting the plant up for vigorous regrowth in spring.

Step 1: Stop Fertilizing

• Discontinue all fertilizers (including slow-release) about 6–8 weeks before dormancy begins.
• Excess nutrients encourage tender new growth that can rot when temperatures drop.

Step 2: Gradually Reduce Watering

• Begin tapering water once nighttime temperatures consistently drop below 60°F.
• Allow soil to dry between waterings.
• Stop watering entirely when leaves yellow and fall.

Step 3: Move Plants Indoors (if applicable)

For container-grown plumeria in cooler regions:

• Move them to a garage, shed, or indoor area once nighttime lows reach 45°F.
• A dark area with temperatures between 50–60°F is ideal.
• Avoid light or warmth that could restart growth prematurely.

Step 4: Inspect and Clean

• Remove all dead leaves to prevent mold.
• Check for pests like mealybugs, scale, or spider mites before storing.
• Treat infestations before placing plants in storage.

Step 5: Protect Cuttings and Unpotted Plants

If you have unrooted cuttings or newly rooted plants:

• Store bare-root cuttings in a cool, dry, and dark area.
• Wrap in newspaper or place in dry perlite or vermiculite to prevent shriveling.
• Avoid moisture — damp conditions can cause stem rot.

5. Caring for Dormant Plumeria

Environment

• Temperature: Maintain between 50–60°F.
• Humidity: Moderate; overly humid air encourages fungal growth.
• Airflow: Gentle circulation helps prevent mold.

Watering During Dormancy

• Established plants in pots: Do not water until spring growth resumes.
• Bare-root plants: Mist lightly every few weeks only if stems wrinkle.

Light

• Darkness or low light is fine — plumeria don’t photosynthesize during dormancy.
• Avoid bright light, which can confuse the plant into restarting growth too early.

6. Breaking Dormancy in Spring

When temperatures warm and daylight lengthens:

1. Move plumeria into bright light or outdoors when nights stay above 55°F.
2. Begin light watering once new leaf tips appear.
3. Apply a balanced fertilizer (like Excalibur VI or IX) once growth resumes.
4. Prune and repot if necessary before the growth surge begins.

7. Common Dormancy Mistakes

8. How Long Does Dormancy Last

• In tropical zones: 1–2 months (or skipped entirely)
• In temperate zones: 3–5 months, typically November through March
• Early spring warmth naturally signals the plant to awaken

Dormancy length varies by variety — Singapore (P. obtusa) tends to resist full dormancy, while P. rubra varieties go completely leafless in cooler conditions.

9. Special Note on Seedlings

Young seedlings (especially under one year old) often do not go completely dormant.
They may slow down but continue producing roots and a few leaves. Allowing this partial activity helps build stronger root systems and results in earlier blooming maturity.

Final Thoughts

Dormancy is nature’s way of protecting plumeria from cold or stress. Understanding how and why it happens lets you manage the transition safely. Whether you’re overwintering mature trees or young seedlings, the goal is simple: protect from cold, keep them dry, and wake them gently in spring.

References:

• PlumeriaCareGuide.com – Dormancy & Overwintering Section
• FloridaColorsPlumeria.com
• University of Hawaiʻi CTAHR
• ThePlumeriaSociety.org